Saturday, July 7, 2012

How to Build a Wind Turbine - Step by Step Instructions

###How to Build a Wind Turbine - Step by Step Instructions### Advertisements

Step by Step Instructions for making your own 4 foot Wind Turbine

Woodworkers Hardware Supply

There are several Diy wind turbine science projects on the internet. This project is acceptable for high school level.

Making a wind powered generator from scrap materials is very rewarding and empowering. Most of the tools and materials you need, can be found in your local hardware shop or junk pile. We highly propose you hunt your local dump and/or junkyards for the materials required. If you live in a city, do a hunt on freecycle.org for salvaged parts. For the wind turbine built in these pictures, we picked up the motor on eBay for plus shipping and the Pvc pipe for the blades from a junk pile. The tail is made from an old roller paint pan.

Safety should be your top priority. Human life is more important than electricity, so please work safely.

This wind turbine is based on the chispito organize with it's straightforward and effective organize and assembly.

Supplies

A 260 Vdc, 5 A continuous duty Treadmill Motor with a 6 inch threaded hub is best grand for a small wind turbine. These motors are ready from most motor surplus shop and on eBay. You can get about 7 amps in a 30 mph wind. In other words, it is a simple, cheap small engine to get you started.

I also picked up a 90 Vdc, 20A treadmill motor off eBay for plus shipping. This motor requires an upgrade to most of the primary Chispito instructions due to the growth in size and weight.

You may use any other straightforward permanent magnet Dc motor that returns at least 1 V for every 25 rpm and can cope upwards of 10 amps. If you do, there will be certain changes to this furnish list, for example, you will have to find a hub - a circular saw blade with a 5/8" shaft adaptor will work. For our larger motor we used a metal slow enthralling car sign, bolted to a 3.5 inch pulley. The triangular shape was just what we were looking for but requires withhold from behind, or the metal bends in high winds. Tools

Drill & Bits Jigsaw with a metal blade Wrench Flat Head Screwdriver Crescent Wrench Vise and/or Clamp Wire Strippers Tape part label Pen An extra man helps a lot!
Mount

Square Tubing or "L" tubing Floor Flange - or a rotating dolly wheel with a hole in the centre (picture the wheels on a grocery 4 inch Nipple 3 X 3/4 Self-tapping Screws Note: if using the dolley wheel, you won't need the nipple and flange as the dolley wheel bolts to the tower.
Motor

260 Vdc, 5 A continuous duty Treadmill Motor with a 6 inch threaded hub 30 - 50 Amp Blocking Diode (one-way) 2 - 5/16 x 3/4 Motor Bolts Pvc Pipe - to cover the motor
Tail

1 sqft (approx) lightweight material (metal) - used roller paint tray will work 2 - 3/4 Self-tapping Screws
Blades

24" distance of 8" Pvc Pipe (if it is Uv resistant, you will not need to paint it 6 - 1/4 X 20 Bolts 9 - 1/4 washers 3 sheets A4 paper and tape
Cutting The Blades - makes 8 blades (or 2+ blade sets) and a thin waste strip.

Read straight through the instructions a combine of times. I have created a detach page, with pictures, and extensive on this process for making the blades as it's roughly impossible to understand without the illustrations. See the link at the lowest of this article.

Place the 24" distance of Pvc pipe and quadrate tubing (or other level edge) side by side on a flat surface. Push the pipe tight against the tubing and mark the line where they touch. This is Line A. Make a mark near each end of Line A, 23" apart. Tape 3 sheets of A4 paper together, so that they form a long, thoroughly level piece of paper. Wrap this nearby the section of pipe at each of the two the marks you just made, one then the other. Make sure the short side of the paper is level along Line A and the paper is level against itself where it overlaps. Mark a line along the edge of the paper at each end. Call one LineB and the other Line C. Start where Line A intersects Line B. Going left nearby Line B, make a mark at every 145 mm. The last section should be about 115 mm. Start where Line A intersects Line C. Going right nearby Line C, make a mark at every 145 mm. The last section should be about 115 mm. Mark each line using a level edge. Cut along these lines, using the jigsaw, so that you have 4 strips of 145 mm and one strip about 115 mm. Take each strip and place them with the inside of the pipe facing down. Make a mark at one end of each strip 115 mm from the left edge. Make a mark at the other end of each strip 30 mm from the left edge. Mark and cut these lines, using the jigsaw. Place each blade with the inside of the pipe facing down. Make a mark along the angled line of the blade, 3" from the wide end. Make another mark on the wide end of the blade, 1" from the level edge. Join together these two marks and cut along the line. This prevents the blades interfering with the others' wind.
Sanding the Blades

You should sand the blades to achieve the desired airfoil. This will growth the efficiency of the blades, as well as making them quieter. The angled (leading) edge wants to be rounded, while the level (tailing) edge wants to be pointed. Any sharp corners should be slightly rounded to cut down on noise.

Cutting The Tail

The exact dimensions of the tail are not important. You want about one quadrate foot of lightweight material, preferably metal. You can make the tail any shape you want, so long as the end corollary is stiff rather than floppy. Drilling Holes in quadrate Tubing - using the 5/16" drill bit

Place the motor on the front end of the quadrate tubing, so that the hub part hangs over the edge and the bolt holes of the motor face down. Roll the motor back so you can see the bolt holes, and mark their position on the quadrate tubing. Drill a 5/16" hole at each mark all the way straight through the quadrate tubing.
Drilling Holes in Blades - using the 1/4" drill bit

Mark two holes at the wide end and along the level edge of each of the three blades. The first hole should be 3/8" from the level edge and 1/2" from the bottom. The second hole should be 3/8" from the level edge and 1 1/4" from the bottom. Drill these 6 holes.
Drilling and Tapping Holes in Hub - using the 7/32" drill bit and 1/4" tap

Note: You may want to modify these instructions. Try replacing the hub with an old, used 7 1/4 inch skill saw blade. The larger outside area will give you more space to screw or bolt the blades to. The larger the blades, the more important this connection becomes. For our larger motor, we used a metal slow enthralling car sign, reinforced with a ring of wood, to bolt the pvc blades to. This gives you lots of room to work with. We also used 1/4 inch bolts rather than drilling and tapping holes. I've also see old aluminum frying pans used for this purpose. They are light and solid!

If the Treadmill motor comes with the hub attached, take it off, hold the end of the shaft (which comes straight through the hub) firmly with pliers, and turn the hub clockwise. This hub unscrews clockwise, which is why the blades turn counter-clockwise. Make a template of the hub on a piece of paper, using a compass and protractor. Mark 3 holes, each of which is 2 3/8" from the town of the circle and equidistant from each other. Place this template over the hub and punch a starter hole straight through the paper and onto the hub at each hole. Drill these holes with the 7/32" drill bit. Tap the holes with the 1/4" x 20 tap. Bolt the blades onto the hub using the 1/4" bolts. At this point, the outer holes have not been drilled. part the distance between the level edge of the tips of each blade. Adjust them so that they are all equidistant. Mark and punch each hole on the hub straight through the empty hole in each blade. Label the blades and hub so that you can match which blade goes where at a later stage. Take off the blades and then drill and tap these outer three holes. Note: a metal slow enthralling car sign is not solid (thick) enough to stand-up in high winds. We screwed on a wooden ring to the back of the sign to give it the required strength.

You now have all the parts you need. For final assemble instructions (and a present of the above instructions with lots of pictures) please take a look at this website: http://www.greenterrafirma.com/Diy_Wind_Turbine.html.

It includes several more pictures to aid with the final assembly and an supplementary section on Towers. These plans are provided free of charge.

Enjoy!

How to Build a Wind Turbine - Step by Step Instructions


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